November, 2006
Written by: Ben Bicais on Tuesday, November 28 2006
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I was not surprised to see that a couple of wines from the Santa Lucia Highlands made the WS Top 100 list. This is one of the most exciting regions in California, and is home to some of the best Pinot Noir vineyards in the world.
The Santa Lucia Highlands AVA has several things going for it that makes its Pinot so consistent. The soil contains quite a bit of limestone which is always desirable for Burgundian grapes. Additionally, the climate is blessed with a very long, moderate growing season.
It is no accident that Rosella’s Vineyard and Garys’ Vineyard have consistently made some of the very top Pinot Noir from California. Both have are planted on southeast facing hills and are owned by perfectionist grape growers.
At #59 on the WS 100, the Loring 2004 Rosella’s Vineyard Pinot Noir is from Gary Franscioni’s vines. He is from an old Salinas farming family that has been growing fruits and vegetables for years. In 1996, Franscioni planted Rosella’s Vineyard with Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Syrah on prime, southeast facing slopes.
The Siduri 2004 Garys’ Vineyard Pinot Noir is was ranked just behind Loring at #60. Garys’ Vineyard is a partnership between Gary Franscioni and Gary Pisoni. This property also has a southeast exposure and is planted in the sandy-loam, limestone influenced soils of the Santa Lucia Highlands.
Written by: Ryan Fujiu on Tuesday, November 28 2006
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Wine publications have a tremendous amount of influence in the wine industry. Over the years, casual wine consumers have developed a following because of their insightful articles, wine ratings and recommendations.
A publication that has received a ton of attention lately is Wine X Magazine. They are geared toward the younger audience; featuring music, fashion, videos, books, and travel in addition to wine. They pride themselves on “create[ing] a comfortable forum in which young adults can learn more about the tasty juice without the usual intimidation.”
I’ve found their articles entertaining as well as informative. They are currently the second largest wine-related magazine in the world with two million readers per issue. Their publications are available in print and online. In addition, their website offers hot topics, wine rating, and section called “wine bitch,” where readers can discuss articles and publication materials.
Written by: Ben Bicais on Monday, November 27 2006
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Chardonnay is often considered California’s ubiquitous white varietal, and there are many ordinary wines made with this grape. But the Shafer Vineyards 2004 Carneros Red Shoulder Ranch Chardonnay and Aubert 2004 Sonoma Coast Lauren Chardonnay are two wines that stand apart from the masses.
Famous for his Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon, Doug Shafer shows his winemaking versatility with the 2004 Red Shoulder Ranch Chardonnay. This is an interesting wine that was fermented with only wild yeasts. It was barrel aged but did not undergo malolactic fermentation.
This wine has beautifully pure varietal characteristics and was made with grapes from the cool Red Shoulder Ranch Vineyard in the Carneros AVA. Wind and fog from the San Pablo Bay cools the vines and keeps acidity high, despite relatively warm summertime temperatures.
Mark Aubert is on the short list of California’s best-known wine consultants. With a winemaking resume that includes working at Peter Michael, Sloan, and Colgin, there was considerable excitement when he announced the formation of his own label in 2000. Aubert Wines specializes in Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from the Sonoma Coast AVA.
The Aubert 2004 Sonoma Coast Lauren Chardonnay was ranked #30 on the WS Top 100. A bit more expensive than Shafer’s Red Shoulder Ranch, this really is a stunning wine. Unfortunately, it is very difficult to purchase without being on the mailing list.
Written by: Ben Bicais on Wednesday, November 22 2006
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This is the first part of a series of articles on California’s wines that made Wine Spectators Top 100 list.
Three Pinot Noirs from the Russian River Valley were awarded coveted spots on the Wine Spectator Top 100 List. The variables used to create this hierarchy include, “quality, value, availability, and excitement.” 13,500 wines were reviewed by the magazine this year.
It’s unfortunate that the these sorts of rankings have as much influence as they do, but the reality is that inclusion in Wine Spectator’s Top 100 brings an incredible amount of exposure and legitimacy to the winery and the region. With this at stake, it’s nice to see that three small producers from one of my favorite regions made the cut.
The Kosta Brown, 2004 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir received an impressive #7 ranking on the list. Wine Spectator scored it 96 and was also clearly impressed with the wine’s $38 price tag. Kosta Browne is a small winery that makes several bottlings of big, extracted Pinot Noir. The grapes were allowed to hang until they developed a very high sugar level (25 – 27 degrees BRIX), while the region’s characteristic fog retained sufficient acidity for balance. As shown on the map below, wind and fog from the Pacific Ocean enters Russian River Valley from the Pacific Ocean.
Their 2004 Russian River Valley Pinot was made with grapes from Amber Ridge, Bly, Cohn, and Koplen Vineyards. Wine Spectator is usually thrilled with massive, fruit forward wines, and with an alcohol level of 15.2%, this wine meets that criterion.
The second Russian River Valley Pinot is Merry Edwards 2003 Russian River Valley Klopp Ranch Methode a Lancienne Pinot Noir, adn at $48 it was ranked #21. Before starting her own winery, Merry Edwards was in high demand as a consultant. She was also the founding winemaker at Matanzas Creek in the Bennett Valley AVA.
Mueller Winery is another small Russian River Valley producer that made the list. The 2003 Emily’s Cuvee Pinot Noir scored a 93 and ranked #54. Like the Kosta Browne, it costs $38. The grapes used to make this wine were grown in gravel soils and a cool, foggy climate. This fog is critical to retaining the acidity that Pinot Noir is known for.
Written by: Ben Bicais on Tuesday, November 21 2006
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Even premium Napa Valley wineries are not immune from the difficult realities of the wine industry. Share Cast recently reported that shares of publicly traded Cosentino Signature Wines (MCOZ) have plummeted over 67% since June. Despite their premium quality wines and excellent tasting room location, (west of Highway 29 in Oakville), Cosentino’s distributors are not selling wine fast enough.
Because traditional distribution channels are highly competitive, many wineries are looking for new ways to reach the consumer. Content based, social networking sites are a particularly promising medium as thousands of wine lovers are looking for new producers each day.
Written by: Ben Bicais on Monday, November 20 2006
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Vines and Wines recently posted an interesting article entitled Phenolics and Oxidation in Wine . Andrew Waterhouse of The American Journal of Enology and Viticulture has been studying the effects of oxidation on wine for quite some time and recently released new research on the subject. Waterhouse contends that it is inorganic compounds in wine such as iron that form “reactive oxygen species.” This leads to browning and other symptoms of oxidation.
As Vines and Wines correctly points out, this research could have broad implications. Regions that consistently produce wines with high oxygen content could have less ability to age gracefully.
Written by: Ben Bicais on Monday, November 20 2006
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Several new sub-AVAs will soon be proposed within the large Paso Robles wine region. But as AVAs get more and more specific, there is a real risk that all of the new names will be unrecognizable to consumers.
The Paso Robles Wine Alliance has spent a lot of money building a geographical brand around their region. Many members of the Wine Alliance argue that it does not make sense to break up this brand into smaller ones that are not familiar to consumers. The Paso Robles AVA Committee is a separate organization that is advocating the formation of smaller regions.
From a grape growing point of view, Paso Robles should be broken up. It is a very large region with a variety of microclimates and soil types. There is a big difference between the vines that are grown near the cool Templeton Gap in the west and vines planted in the much warmer eastern hills. And this is just the tip of the iceberg of the many natural variations within Paso Robles.
In a recent discussion about the issue on Appellation America, Thomas J. Rice Ph.D., argued that creating a detailed topographical map of Paso Robles would be a good first step. There are several distinct watersheds in the region including Paso Robles Creek, the Upper Salinas River, Estrella River, Huerhuero River, Tablas Creek, and San Marco Creek. According to Rice, soil and climate variations should be considered as well before the final borders of the new sub-AVAs are drawn.
In the same discussion, Earl Singer countered that a better way for the diverse wineries of Paso Robles to develop a specific image would be to join smaller organizations based on grape varietals rather than geography. Thus, all Zinfandel producers would market their wines around this specific grape. This is an interesting idea, but it might undermine the whole notion of labeling wines based on specific places in California. The debate will likely continue until later the new sub-AVAs are proposed.
Written by: Ben Bicais on Friday, November 17 2006
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Cabernet Sauvignon has taken root, and made itself at home in the Napa Valley. There are fine examples of Cab from almost every Napa Valley region, but Stags Leap and Rutherford are the most famous.
Although both regions receive similar acclaim for their Cabs, they have strikingly different characteristics.
The Rutherford Bench is a narrow strip of land at the base of the Mayacamas Mountains in Western Napa Valley. Because vines are planted on a gradual, east-facing slope, they are privy to afternoon sun exposure that eludes other regions. Wines made with grapes grown on the Rutherford Bench are known to exhibit “Rutherford Dust,” meaning they are full bodied with spicy and earthy fruit flavors.
Stags Leap is on the opposite side of the valley from the Rutherford Bench. It’s also a little further south, and more exposed to the wind and fog from the San Pablo Bay. In addition to this climatic feature, Stags Leap hillside vines are planted on west-facing slopes, so they don’t receive as much sun exposure as the east-facing slopes of the Rutherford Bench. Because of this, the grapes do not ripen as much as those from Rutherford. Thus, Cabs from Stags Leap have become known as an “iron fist in a velvet glove.” The “iron fist” refers to these wines’ tighter fruit, and the “velvet glove” refers to their smoother tannins, lusher mid palate, and more approachable flavor profile than classic Rutherford Bench wines.
If you like the combination of firm tannins with complex flavors of black fruit, earth and spice, than look no further than the Rutherford Bench. For those of you who enjoy Cabs that have a silkier texture with blackberry, cherry, and chocolate flavors, I suggest exploring what Stags Leap has to offer.
Written by: Ben Bicais on Friday, November 17 2006
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Geographical distinctions have always helped to sell wine, and the American Viticultural Area, or AVA system, is a useful marketing tool for wineries. As AVAs get more and more specific in California, the biggest question is whether or not the average wine consumer will see these smaller regions as meaningful.
The Paso Robles AVA has built a very strong geographical brand in recent years. But because the region is so large, and its climate and terrain so varied, several applications for sub-AVAs are in the works. While I completely agree that these new sub-AVAs are justified based on their unique characteristics, I question whether or not this is a good move from a branding point of view.
Written by: Ben Bicais on Thursday, November 16 2006
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Famous critics wield enormous power in the wine industry. Luminaries like Robert Parker can literally make or break a wine based on their professional opinion.
Parker burst onto the international wine scene when he strongly advocated purchasing Bordeaux from the 1982 vintage. More traditional critics dismissed this year as too fruit forward, but apparently that was exactly what the New World wine consumer was looking for. 1982 Bordeaux remains one of the most expensive years from that era.
He certainly struck a chord with wine drinkers who were baffled by discussions of terroir and “pencil shaving” flavors. Instead, they wanted wines that had overt fruit flavors, and Parker pointed these out by rating them highly on his 100 point scale.
But in the process, the notion of finesse in the New World was pretty much thrown out the window by most producers. Suddenly everyone was trying to please the Parker palate.
The 100 point scale has always baffled me. Of course scores are correlated with quality, but I have no idea what each point represents and, put bluntly, it seems like an objective façade. But it certainly moves product, and consumers will quickly turn their nose up at a wine that scored a few less “points” than another. It seems like a placebo effect run amok.
I find it strange that average palates take their advice from rare, exceptional ones regarding minute details that they can’t perceive. Wine cannot be explained by one person; it is the give and take, and interaction with others that I have always found most helpful. Thankfully, the status quo is slowly changing, largely because of the blogosphere and community based wine websites.
This can be attributed to the development of wide scale user interaction. The casual consumer can now see what other wine lovers, just like themselves, think about a wine. Although this phenomenon has not reached the main stream, it is slowly building momentum. And as it does, the public is going to be less interested in a single person’s opinion, and more concerned with everyone’s.
Written by: Ben Bicais on Thursday, November 16 2006
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I know that I have been a little tough on French wine lately, but there are things I admire about their industry. Despite all of its bureaucratic inefficiencies and generally anti-competitive behavior, the AOC still has merit. I certainly do not think that everything they are doing is bad; far from it. Of course the AOC could be improved, but California could definitely learn from France’s regulation of their best Appellations.
AOC laws for specific regions have hurt French innovation, but they also ensure at least some level of quality.
This is especially true in smaller, more specific Appellations like Pauillac, Cote Rotie, etc. California, on the other hand, does not limit yields and has no regulations on grape growing and winemaking practices in specific AVAs.
Negociants are increasingly buying the excess grapes and wine from vineyards in California’s elite AVAs that did not make the cut for the original grower or winery’s production. They buy these inferior grapes and wine at discount prices and then slap a premium AVA on the label. This clearly dilutes California’s notion of “place,” and I think that it is a real danger to the AVA system.
Written by: Ben Bicais on Wednesday, November 15 2006
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A few days ago, I wrote about, French Terroir vs. California Innovation: You Decide. After reviewing that post, I’d like to examine the French AOC system in a little more depth. While most of Europe and even some New World countries have modeled their wine governance systems on the AOC, it is fair to ask whether these laws actually help consumers, or if they merely give mediocre producers a safer framework to market their wines.
For a background on issues that the French AOC system is currently facing, I suggest reading Alder Yarrow’s A Good Overview of France’s Problem and the that article he refers to.
To begin, it is important to look at why the French AOC system was created in the first place. Some of France’s best wine producers were worried that lesser producers were diluting the value of famous wine growing regions. Before the AOC, a producer in Burgundy could buy some Grenache from the Rhone Valley and blend it with his Pinot Noir in an unripe year. He could then label the wine as if the grapes were entirely from his part of Burgundy.
Needless to say, premium quality producers were furious that this was happening. So they lobbied for laws that would protect the terroir. The AOC system emerged out of these efforts, and now regulates not only the varietal type and geographical source of grapes, but also yields, vineyard management decisions, winemaking practices, and other factors that affect quality.
The AOC was originally intended to protect France’s best wine producers; and ironically, it has done more for the worst.
The problem is that AOC laws foster anti-competitive behavior. After all, if a “Bourgogne” label carries enough prestige to sell a wine on its own, there is little impetus for improvement. And this was the case for many years. That is, until a couple of decades ago when France and other European countries began to lose their stranglehold on the export market.
Producers from California, Australia, Chile, and other New World wine regions began to chip away at Europe’s dominance for a variety of reasons. One was that they were free to label their wines based on the grape varietal, which is illegal under the AOC. The consumer no longer had to be a geography expert to select a decent wine. It’s telling that New World wine regions gave many consumers what they were looking for by catering to their tastes; not abiding by the laws of an out-dated bureaucracy.
Written by: Ben Bicais on Wednesday, November 15 2006
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Today, Budburst had an interesting post about the different types of off aromas in wine and where they originate. The controversial subject of wine closures centers on TCA or cork taint. While this is certainly the central issue, underneath the surface is the question of how oxidation helps wine age. Aside from aesthetic reasons, this is the chief reason that natural cork is still used for high quality wines.
I have heard the argument from proponents of natural cork that over time, tiny amounts of oxidation will interact with the wine and bring out its more developed flavors and bouquet. But how much oxygen is enough? And what is the exact threshold before a wine will spoil? These are questions that are usually answered with something like, “wine is a mysterious beverage, and no one really knows how the aging process actually occurs.”
If slight oxidation will benefit wine with age, it seems a bit counterintuitive that almost every step of the production process for most wines is concerned with minimizing oxygen contact as much as possible. Many wines that undergo barrel aging are left in contact with their lees to minimize the effects of oxidation. Just before the cork is inserted, any oxygen is flushed out of the neck of the bottle. People are advised to not subject their aging wine to temperature swings as the cork will expand and contract and risk oxidation. One of the main drawbacks of synthetic corks is that they are not as pliable as natural ones, and thus more susceptible to the ill effects of temperature fluctuation.
It is undeniable that oxidation plays some role in winemaking and aging.
The brownish rim of a well aged Cabernet Sauvignon is proof that oxidation helped make the wine what it is. The chief benefit that I am aware of is that slight exposure to oxygen will help soften astringent tannins. And the consensus seems to be that only natural cork will allow for the right amount of oxygen exposure.
It will be very interesting to see how well one of the few, age-worthy red wines that are currently being bottled with screw caps will develop over the next decade. Will this wine taste very similar to when it was bottled, or are there other variables at work that will make it taste aged? Maybe then the effects of oxidation on wine aging will be more apparent.
Written by: Ben Bicais on Wednesday, November 15 2006
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Zinquistion recently posted on the topic, Why does good California wine cost so much? Saint Vini gave a very thorough breakdown of where the money for a $20 bottle of wine actually goes. The thing that I found most striking about the conclusion was that not only does the winery only make about $1.12 per bottle, but most if not all of this must be reinvested.
Winemaking is a high overhead business, and wineries not only need to buy new barrels and grapes, but also may need to update their production facilities, replant vineyards, etc. I must admit that I have been taken aback by the high price of wine from time to time, but Saint Vini’s breakdown in mind, there does not seem to be much to complain about.
Written by: Ben Bicais on Tuesday, November 14 2006
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As many of you have experienced, wine tasting can be an exhausting endeavor. Last night at my ISG Sommelier class, we focused on wines from Rhone, Piedmont, Tuscany, and Northeast Italy. I was able to taste a few Barolos, Hermitage, Barbera d’Alba, Amarone, and several Chiantis.
These wines are all highly acidic and most have strong tannins. During the first few tastings of Chianti and Barolo, my senses were heightened and sharp. But about half way through, I could noticeably tell that my palate was beginning to fatigue, and it became more and more difficult to distinguish their characteristics.
I did my best to avoid this situation by spitting and drinking plenty of water in between each tasting. But the onset of palate fatigue had begun. This is something that I have experienced many times before and can hamper any extended wine tasting experience.
So I decided to ask my friend why this happens, and what he said shed light on my dilemma.
“The taste perception of wine can be broken down into sweet taste, acid taste and bitter taste. The balance between the three looks something like this:
Sweet Taste (sugars + alcohols) <= => Acid Taste (acids) + Bitter Taste (phenols)
To understand why palate fatigue occurs, it is necessary to take a deeper look at sensory perception. The tongue contains millions of little sensors called papillae. There are different types of papillae which sense different kinds of molecules. For example, some will sense sugars, while others sense acids or tannins.
When wine enters your mouth, the papillae on your tongue will be exposed to all of the molecules that make up the wine. When a molecule interacts with a sensor (papillae) on your tongue, an electrical signal is sent to your brain; and your brain will register that sense. For example, when a sugar molecule binds to a papillae, an impulse is sent to your brain which you register as sweet.
This is happening on a molecular level, and the sum total of all the impulses make up your sensory perception of that wine. But each time a molecule binds to a papillae, it becomes more desensitized. This causes the electrical signal to your brain to decrease in strength, causing your overall perception to dull. This is the physiological reason for palate fatigue.”
So basically, the more you taste, the less sensitive your palate becomes. Some strategies that experienced tasters use to combat this unfortunate occurrence include:
- drinking white wine first;
- limiting tastings of acidic, tannic wines;
- drink baking soda and water between tastings;
- eating a water cracker between tastings;
- extending the period of time between tastings.
Hopefully the next time you go wine tasting, this will help you prevent palate fatigue.
Written by: Ben Bicais on Tuesday, November 14 2006
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Good Wine Under $20 recently posted two very interesting articles on wine pairing suggestions for Thanksgiving. I completely agree with their advice to keep your wine selections affordable during the holidays. Here are a few of my favorite California wines to pair with your turkey dinner this year.
The Husch 2004 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir is a crossover wine that pairs with many different foods. Thanksgiving dinner is no exception. The vibrant cherry, spicy, and earthy flavors of this Pinot are deep and substantial, yet not overwhelming.
The Tablas Creek 2005 Cotes de Tablas Blanc is a blend of Marsanne, Roussane, and Viognier. The Roussanne adds acidity, the Marsanne contributes body, and the Viognier gives this wine a wonderful aromatics. This is a complex wine that will pair nicely with the diverse flavors on your Thanksgiving table.
The acidity of Sauvignon Blanc with cut through the thickness of some of the traditional foods on this holiday. Brassfield Estate makes an excellent version of this varietal from the High Valley AVA in Lake County.
I hope these suggestions are helpful and I wish everyone a happy Thanksgiving.
Written by: Ben Bicais on Monday, November 13 2006
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There is a great deal of controversy over the validity of the French concept of terroir in California. For those of you who don’t know, terroir is the physical, chemical, and social factors that affect a piece of land and the wine that it produces.
Physical and chemical factors (climate and soil) have a strong influence on the resulting wine; and in France, the social aspect (customs and laws) also plays a major role. On the other hand, the California wine industry is not constrained by these social forces.
The difference arises from the laws of the French AOC system. These laws govern everything from the varietals that can be planted, to trellis systems, to grape yields per hectare. The famous French vineyard, Le Montrachet, is required by law to plant Chardonnay and use specified viticultural and vinification techniques.
There are no such laws in California. California’s vineyard owners are free to decide for themselves which grapes are best for their land. This freedom allows for innovation and enabled the development of the New World wine style.
If California’s wine industry were subject the laws of the French AOC system, some of the best wines in the world would have never been produced.
Napa Valley is widely recognized for its Cabernet Sauvignon and other Bordeaux varietals. Under the AOC system, all vineyards in the Napa Valley would be required to plant these certain grapes, and for the most part the results would be great. However, one of the best wines from California, Mount Veeder’s Jade Mountain, Paras Vineyard Syrah would have never been produced.
Although there are benefits to the customs and laws of French terroir, it suffocates innovation and experimentation. It is up to you to decide which philosophy you prefer.
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Written by: Ben Bicais on Monday, November 13 2006
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A few days ago, Saint Vini from The Zinquisition wrote his annual summary of American wine consumption trends. As Saint Vini says, the numbers look quite good overall. California was up 4.1% and the nation’s consumption increased 2.1%.
Looking through the statistics, I noticed another thing that seems even more promising. Some of the states that are in the bottom 10 of total wine consumption saw the biggest gains. These include Arkansas, North Dakota, and South Dakota. Growth seams more reasonable, and hopefully more sustainable than the heady days of the 1980s.
Written by: Ben Bicais on Monday, November 13 2006
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Ryan from VineSugar touched on the issue if expensive wines are worth the price. In, Top Napa Cabs… check! he raises the excellent point that even if you rarely or never drink top wines, it is important to try at least one excellent wine if for no other reason than to gain some perspective.
Personally, I have tasted a few Napa Cabs that have really become a benchmark in my mind. While I have only tried wines like Shafer Hillside Select, Fife Max Cuvee, and Colgin a few times, they made a lasting impression on me. I can say with confidence that they are worth the money because they really educated my palate to recognize what a top Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon tastes like.
Written by: Ben Bicais on Monday, November 13 2006
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In a recent post, , Three Perspectives on Cult Cabernets Alder Yarrow of Vinography rose the question if Cult Cabernet Sauvignons are worth the price. More specifically, he examined if a $100 bottle of wine is ten times better than a $10 one. This is a difficult question that elicits strong opinions on both sides.
Many wine lovers that I have spoken to are looking for “deals” first and foremost. When they drink an outstanding wine, if it is expensive, there is a certain amount of guilt associated with the experience. On the other hand, some wine drinkers exculsively associate price with quality. They cannot bring themselves to enjoy a “cheaper” wine, even if it is superb. As Alder argues, it really is a personal issue and depends on many factors.
For my part, there are certain wines that have really been groundbreaking for me, and are worth their high price tags. But I enjoy finding the diamond in the rough as well; but for different reasons.
Written by: Ben Bicais on Thursday, November 09 2006
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Welcome to the first post of the Calwineries Blog! We are excited to launch, and hope that our site and blog provide you with valuable information on California wine. Our site is designed to make the complicated subject of California wine more accessible and approachable.
To lay out California’s wine country, we have constructed interactive maps of all of the major regions in the state.
In our experience, interaction is the best way to learn about wine. So we encourage you to take advantage of our discussion sections on each page by asking questions, commenting, or contributing any other musings that you may have.
Feel free to make a profile and keep track of your favorite wineries, varietals and wines. You can also have contacts and keep track of the comments you have made in the discussion sections. If there are any questions, feel free to contact us. Enjoy!
California’s Performance on the WS Top 100: Santa Lucia Highlands
