December, 2006
Written by: Ben Bicais on Wednesday, December 20 2006
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Always a magnet for controversy, Fred Franzia, owner of Bronco Wine, is in news again. He is accused of copying the label of Santa Barbara Winery with his new product, Santa Barbara Landing ($4.99 at Trader Joe’s).
While the pictures are different, the names and fonts are clearly quite similar. The question is whether or not Franzia is trying the ride the coattails of established wine regions.
The owner of Santa Rosa Winery, Pierre Lafond, clearly believes so saying, “These producers hope to ride on Santa Barbara’s reputation and perceived customer ingnorance.”
This is not the first time Fred Franzia has been sued for his wine labels. In late 2005, Franzia lost a legal battle for labeling wines that were not from Napa or Rutherford “Napa Ridge,” “Napa Creek,” and “Rutherford Vintners.”
Written by: Ben Bicais on Tuesday, December 19 2006
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The movement to protect wine label accuracy in the United States is gaining momentum, and the powerful California Association of Winegrape Growers (CAWG) is throwing its weight behind the issue.
President Karen Ross recently indicated that the CAWG is planning to petition the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau to change loopholes in the law which let producers include foreign grapes in wine that is labeled “American.”
Ross argues that increasing U.S. demand for wine coupled with liberal import laws on the Federal level have, “…led to the most bothersome trend in global wine sourcing – the blending of California wine with imported wine for ‘American’ appellation products.”
Complicating matters even further is the fact that California has a grape glut of its own. The past few years have seen enormous harvests, and many grape growers have their hands full with in-state competitors let alone worrying about cheap grapes from other countries.
I’m certainly a proponent of free trade, but I do have a problem misleading wine labels. If it makes economic sense to import grapes and wine from oversees, then so be it, but these products should be labeled accordingly. Maybe a line that reads, “grown/produced in x country but bottled in California,” would suffice.
Written by: Ben Bicais on Monday, December 18 2006
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One of the reasons Pinot Noir is such tricky wine to make is that just the right amount of tannin needs to be extracted from the grapes’ delicate skins. During fermentation, the cap floats to the top of the container and needs to be periodically resubmerged.
Winemakers have traditionally used pigeage (punch down) or remontage (pump over) to accomplish this. But both of these techniques often agitate the skins to the point that the seeds are separated in the must. This is one of the major sources of green, abrasive tannins that will not mellow with age.
In response to this dilemma, several Pinot Noir producers have adopted a method called pneumatage. Special attachments are installed on the bottom of tanks which inject air bubbles into the must.
The bubbles mix and resubmerge the cap into the must with significantly less trauma than pigeage or remontage. Structure and pigments are imparted in the wine without releasing the harsh tannins that are found in the seeds.
Pulsair Mixing Systems is one of the leaders in developing this new technology. Pulsair produces a number of tank installations to, “harness bubble power.”
Written by: Ben Bicais on Friday, December 15 2006
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A recent study conducted by Fairbank, Maslin & Associates shows that consumers are very concerned about geographical accuracy in wine labels. More specifically, the survey reveals that 85% of consumers are conscious of location when making wine purchasing decisions.
Even more intriguing is the finding that 80% of consumers believe that misleading wine labels are a problem that policy makers should address.
But there are loopholes around geographic accuracy in wine labeling. Thankfully, location/terroir has its defenders and they are weighing in on the issue. The Center for Wine Origins recently launched an online petition in an effort to uphold accuracy in wine labeling.
Linda Reiff, Executive Director of the Napa Valley Vintners Association, made a compelling point for signing the petition when she said, “Wine is now a $100 billion global industry and consumers worldwide should not settle for anything but authentic, unique products. Accurate labeling is critical to ensuring consumers of a wine’s unique qualities and attributes to help them make an informed buying decision. Consumers have a right to know that any wine that carries the name Napa is indeed from the Napa Valley Appellation.”
Written by: Ben Bicais on Thursday, December 14 2006
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Today, Jeff Lefevere of Good Grape wrote an interesting post entitled, Where Does Elitism Come From in the Wine Industry? The push and pull of elitism and populism is one of the most difficult dichotomies that the wine industry faces. It manifests itself in every aspect of the business, from production to marketing/sales. I think that Jeff illuminates the opposing, incompatible forces on both sides of this debate quite well.
On the one hand, there are the populists, typified by the Olive Garden Restaurant. The Olive Garden’s management team recently won the Wine Enthusiast’s Person(s) of the Year Award for essentially popularizing mass produced wine to their consumers. There is reason to be skeptical that the populist movement that Olive Garden has initiated will eventually lead to higher end wine consumers. After all, a lot of people start with White Zinfandel and remain in that market demographic for a lifetime.
On the other hand, there are the elitists that make wine unapproachable to the masses. As Jeff points out, these are the Sommeliers and Wine Directors at fancy restaurants, and wealthy collectors. These individuals turn up their nose at anyone who cannot recite the temperature patterns in Bordeaux for any given year.
So where is the middle ground for the moderates; the wine lovers who look for good values but also appreciate excellence on special occasions? This sane group is under attack from both sides. Populists denounce them as snobs because they realize the difference between a drinkable wine and an outstanding one. Elitists scoff at them because they see value for what it is: a favorable relation between price and quality.
Polarization is one of those things that unfortunately go hand in hand with human society. It is easier to attack the opposing side of view than it is to pursue a reasonable reconciliation of views. Ultimately, both the populists and the elitists enjoy the ancient drink made from fermented grapes. But as the saying goes, “the devil is in the details.”
Written by: Ben Bicais on Wednesday, December 13 2006
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California’s wine industry recently got good marks from the California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance (CSWA). According to the 2006 progress report, there has been a 24% increase in wineries and grape growers who use “green” techniques and business practices.
The results were released during an industry and press event at San Francisco’s Fort Mason. In 2002, the CSWA was jointly founded by the California Association of Winegrape Growers and the Wine Institute. Many wineries and vineyard owners have joined since then, and the movement is clearly gaining momentum.
California has long been a leader in environmentally friendly practices in the vineyard and the winery. Not only is this good for the land, but it also requires a meticulous attention to detail which often translates into better wines for the consumer.
Written by: Ben Bicais on Tuesday, December 12 2006
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The Napa Valley is arguably the most famous wine region in California, so it is no surprise that three wines made the 2006 Wine Spectator Top 100 list. Two Chardonnays and a Cabernet Sauvignon were included.
Kongsgaard is one of the most highly sought after Chardonnay producers in the New World. John and Maggie Kongsgaard produce The Judge (very limited Chardonnay), Chardonnay, Syrah, and a white blend of Roussanne and Viognier.
Although The Judge gets near perfect reviews each year, it is made in such limited quantities that not many people have had the opportunity to enjoy it.
Kongsgaard’s 2003 Napa Valley Chardonnay was ranked #8 on the 2006 Top 100. It was also rated an impressive 97 by James Laube.
The Hess Collection also made an appearance on the Top 100 list with their 2004 Napa Valley Chardonnay. At only $20, this wine is an excellent value. The Hess Collection is set on a breathtaking piece of property high in the Mount Veeder AVA. The property has a lot of historical significance, as Brother Timothy of the Christian Brothers used to make wine in the production facilities.
Lewis Cellars is a family owned and operated winery located in the Oak Knoll AVA. Randy and Debbie Lewis buy grapes from several premium Napa Valley vineyards and produce 8,500 cases each year. Their 2003 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon was ranked #22 on the 2006 Top 100 list. It has excellent structure and will certainly improve with age over several years.
Written by: Ben Bicais on Monday, December 11 2006
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Over the course of his 30 year tenure as winemaker at Beringer Vineyards, Ed Sbragia has made many award winning wines. He recently returned to he roots when he established his own label in the Dry Creek Valley AVA.
Mr. Sbragia’s father, Gino, worked for the Italian Swiss Colony in Asti before starting his own Post-Prohibition winery. Unfortunately, the timing was bad and the winery ultimately folded. This makes Ed’s homecoming all the more important to him. He produces the Gino’s Vineyard Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel to pay homage to his father.
Sbragia’s 26 year old son, Adam, helps with winemaking at the family’s new venture. Adam studied acting at UCLA and originally wanted to break into Hollywood. But he grew tired of the L.A. lifestyle and longed to return to Northern California. Adam currently lives on the family’s Home Ranch Vineyard, where the grapes for the Sbragia Family’s award winning Chardonnay were grown.
The Sbragia Family 2004 Dry Creek Valley Home Ranch Chardonnay ranked #72 on Wine Spectator’s Top 100 list and is priced at an affordable $25. This is a full bodied Chardonnay with a mouth filling texture. It has beautiful spicy apricot and melon flavors. 1,300 cases were produced.
Written by: Ryan Fujiu on Friday, December 08 2006
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Dear Calwineries Members, we had an unfortunate incident yesterday where we lost a few comments. The exact cause of this mishap is under investigation, but be assured that we are getting to the bottom of this.
We apologize for any of your comments we may have lost. Unfortunately, situations like these are part of the growing process and assure you that we are doing everything we can to make sure this doesn’t happen again.
- Calwineries Team
Written by: Ben Bicais on Friday, December 08 2006
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Edna Valley is one of those special California AVAs that seems to excel at producing any varietal that is planted. There is a long history of grape growing and winemaking in Southwestern San Luis Obispo County that dates back to the Spanish Missionary days.
It seems a little counterintuitive for such a small region to make great wines with both Rhone and Burgundian grapes, but that is exactly what is happening in Edna Valley. Located only a few miles inland from the Pacific Ocean, much of the east-west running valley is open to coastal wind and fog.
On the surface, it seems that only Chardonnay and Pinot Noir would do well here. But it is Edna Valley’s remarkably long growing season that makes it one of the strongholds of the “Rhone Rangers.” John Alban is one of the original members of this winemaking movement.
The Alban 2004 Edna Valley Reva Syrah is ranked #50 on the 2006 Wine Spectator Top 100. This is not the first time Alban has graced the list and it will probably not be the last. He only made 1,000 cases of this wine, but you can also look for his Grenache, Mourvedre, Viognier, and Roussanne.
Domaine Alfred’s 2004 Edna Valley Chamisal Vineyard Pinot Noir” is right behind Alban at #51. Proprietor Terry Speizer bought the old Chamisal property in 1994, (it was originally planted in 1972), and began replanting the vineyard with carefully selected clones. This is a serious wine from vine to bottle and is very reasonable at $28. The difficulty lies in finding it.
Written by: Ben Bicais on Wednesday, December 06 2006
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One of Wine Spectator’s stated criteria for inclusion in their Top 100 is that wines must not only receive a high score and offer good value, but also be “exciting.” I know, this notion is vague to me also, and to some degree it is just another way for the WS Top 100 to take center stage based on other variables rather than just their standard point system.
Even though their write-ups of each winery are quite straight forward and did not inspire a lot of excitement when I read them, tastings and other sources confirm that the Santa Rita Hills winery that made the list is one of the most dynamic in California.
Sea Smoke Cellars is a premium producer of Pinot Noir that has gained a cult following in recent years.
Based on their enormous reputation, it is quite amazing that Bob Davids formally established his vineyard just a few years ago in 1999.
Sea Smoke’s hillside vineyard is situated in the western part of the Santa Rita Hills AVA. It has a desirable southern-facing aspect that lets the vines soak up the afternoon sun. In the evening and overnight, fog from the Pacific Ocean creeps up the Santa Rita River and blankets the vineyard. Regular intervals of sun and fog are the key to complexity and finesse in Pinot Noir from Santa Barbara to the Cote de Nuits.
Listed at a very reasonable $30, the Sea Smoke 2004 Santa Rita Hills Botella Pinot Noir was ranked #53 on the 2006 WS Top 100. It is made with 100% estate grapes, has a deep ruby color, and has exotic, ethereal aromas of cherries and spice.
The attention to detail throughout the grape growing and winemaking processes of this Pinot is quite remarkable. Grapes were hand picked and crushing was forgone to let the fruit speak louder than vinification techniques. The must was punched down by hand to extract flavors and supple tannins.
Once the initial fermentation was complete, the free run was separated from gentle pressings. After racking, the different lots of wine were moved to 40% new French oak barrels and aged for 18 months. Regardless if they conveyed it effectively or not, Wine Spectator certainly picked an “exciting” producer for their #53 spot.
Another Fred Franzia Controversy
