California Regions
Written by: Ryan Fujiu on Thursday, February 21 2008
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California Wine Country Images
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Written by: Ryan Fujiu on Tuesday, October 02 2007
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According to a press release sent out today by the Temecula winegrowers association, starting on November 1st, the members of the association will turn away van and limo tour operators who “do not help maintain the decorum” of the wine region.
The members voted overwhelmingly to adopt a Responsible Partner Program. This program only permits companies that promote Temecula wine and good behavior while visiting the region.
Ray Falkner, President of the association said “those who do not abide by certain rules and regulations we have established will not be allowed to visit our wineries … as far as I know, we are the only wine region to take steps to ensure the wine-tasting experience is more enjoyable for all our visitors.”
Wine country tours is big business, and the tour operators are sure to take notice of such a bold initiative. Around a dozen companies have already adopting this philosophy, and Falkner believes that the list will grow to over 50 by the November 1st deadline.
It is the responsibility of the winery to enforce the Responsible Partner Program. They want to dispel the notion that Temecula Wine Country, is “bar country.” It is commendable that they want to make wine touring an enjoyable experience, but it seems like a hard rule to enforce.
The wineries get a large portion of their tasting room sales from wine touring companies bringing large groups by. And the wine touring companies are dependent on the people for business. So turning people away because they are too drunk doesn’t seem like its in the cards, considering that drinking wine gets you drunk.
Following that logic, it seems counter intuitive for the winery association to adopt a rule that could negatively affect the bottom line of their wineries. But only time will tell if it has a negative affect, or if it is even enforced.
Written by: Ben Bicais on Sunday, September 16 2007
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There’s a new gold rush going on in California, but it may not be what you think. For years, Calaveras County has been turning out some of California’s most deeply flavored, delicious wines. The region is located in the southern part of the Sierra Foothills, and boasts 19 boutique wineries.
With only 3 stoplights, Calaveras County has an undeniable amount of rustic charm. Several of California’s rising stars are located in the region, notably the venerable Twisted Oak Winery.
Owners Jeff and Mary Stai have won many awards for their mountain grown wines and have developed quite a following. They have an impressive web presence and a great blog that is cleverly written.
Some of their current releases include The Spaniard (65% Tempranillo, 31% Caberent Sauvignon and 4% Petit Verdot in 2004), 2005 Petite Sirah, 2004 Murgatroyd (55% Cab, 25% Petit Verdot, 13% Tempranillo and 7% Grenache), and 2004 Syrah. Twisted Oak is one of California’s premiere producers of Tempranillo. This Spanish grape has taken to the rocky hillsides of Calaveras County exceptionally well.
Twisted Oak is amongst great company and there are a number of other wineries in the region that are well worth exploring. So if you are looking for a change of pace from the tasting rooms of Napa and Sonoma, consider planning a trip to beautiful Calaveras County.
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Written by: Ryan Fujiu on Wednesday, January 24 2007
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The beauty of California’s wine country can inspire even the most disheartened individuals. These are some my favorite California images. If you are viewing this from an RSS reader click here
California Wine Country Images
Featured are vineyard images from Oakville, Rutherford, Carneros, Alexander Valley, Chalk Hill and he Dry Creek Valley.
Written by: Ben Bicais on Thursday, January 11 2007
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Wine Enthusiast Magazine is one of the most widely read and respected wine publications in the world. At the end of each year, the magazine announces its coveted Wine Star Awards. Alexander Valley was recently named wine region of the year for 2006. The results were published in Wine Enthusiast’s December 15th, 2006 issue.
In the article, Wine Enthusiast alludes to Alexander Valley’s long history of producing Zinfandel which dates to the 19th century. The valley’s propensity for premium quality Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay are also cited.
Written by: Ben Bicais on Tuesday, December 12 2006
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The Napa Valley is arguably the most famous wine region in California, so it is no surprise that three wines made the 2006 Wine Spectator Top 100 list. Two Chardonnays and a Cabernet Sauvignon were included.
Kongsgaard is one of the most highly sought after Chardonnay producers in the New World. John and Maggie Kongsgaard produce The Judge (very limited Chardonnay), Chardonnay, Syrah, and a white blend of Roussanne and Viognier.
Although The Judge gets near perfect reviews each year, it is made in such limited quantities that not many people have had the opportunity to enjoy it.
Kongsgaard’s 2003 Napa Valley Chardonnay was ranked #8 on the 2006 Top 100. It was also rated an impressive 97 by James Laube.
The Hess Collection also made an appearance on the Top 100 list with their 2004 Napa Valley Chardonnay. At only $20, this wine is an excellent value. The Hess Collection is set on a breathtaking piece of property high in the Mount Veeder AVA. The property has a lot of historical significance, as Brother Timothy of the Christian Brothers used to make wine in the production facilities.

Lewis Cellars is a family owned and operated winery located in the Oak Knoll AVA. Randy and Debbie Lewis buy grapes from several premium Napa Valley vineyards and produce 8,500 cases each year. Their 2003 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon was ranked #22 on the 2006 Top 100 list. It has excellent structure and will certainly improve with age over several years.
Written by: Ben Bicais on Monday, December 11 2006
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Over the course of his 30 year tenure as winemaker at Beringer Vineyards, Ed Sbragia has made many award winning wines. He recently returned to he roots when he established his own label in the Dry Creek Valley AVA.

Mr. Sbragia’s father, Gino, worked for the Italian Swiss Colony in Asti before starting his own Post-Prohibition winery. Unfortunately, the timing was bad and the winery ultimately folded. This makes Ed’s homecoming all the more important to him. He produces the Gino’s Vineyard Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel to pay homage to his father.
Sbragia’s 26 year old son, Adam, helps with winemaking at the family’s new venture. Adam studied acting at UCLA and originally wanted to break into Hollywood. But he grew tired of the L.A. lifestyle and longed to return to Northern California. Adam currently lives on the family’s Home Ranch Vineyard, where the grapes for the Sbragia Family’s award winning Chardonnay were grown.
The Sbragia Family 2004 Dry Creek Valley Home Ranch Chardonnay ranked #72 on Wine Spectator’s Top 100 list and is priced at an affordable $25. This is a full bodied Chardonnay with a mouth filling texture. It has beautiful spicy apricot and melon flavors. 1,300 cases were produced.
Written by: Ben Bicais on Friday, December 08 2006
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Edna Valley is one of those special California AVAs that seems to excel at producing any varietal that is planted. There is a long history of grape growing and winemaking in Southwestern San Luis Obispo County that dates back to the Spanish Missionary days.
It seems a little counterintuitive for such a small region to make great wines with both Rhone and Burgundian grapes, but that is exactly what is happening in Edna Valley. Located only a few miles inland from the Pacific Ocean, much of the east-west running valley is open to coastal wind and fog.
On the surface, it seems that only Chardonnay and Pinot Noir would do well here. But it is Edna Valley’s remarkably long growing season that makes it one of the strongholds of the “Rhone Rangers.” John Alban is one of the original members of this winemaking movement.
The Alban 2004 Edna Valley Reva Syrah is ranked #50 on the 2006 Wine Spectator Top 100. This is not the first time Alban has graced the list and it will probably not be the last. He only made 1,000 cases of this wine, but you can also look for his Grenache, Mourvedre, Viognier, and Roussanne.
Domaine Alfred’s 2004 Edna Valley Chamisal Vineyard Pinot Noir” is right behind Alban at #51. Proprietor Terry Speizer bought the old Chamisal property in 1994, (it was originally planted in 1972), and began replanting the vineyard with carefully selected clones. This is a serious wine from vine to bottle and is very reasonable at $28. The difficulty lies in finding it.
Written by: Ben Bicais on Wednesday, December 06 2006
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One of Wine Spectator’s stated criteria for inclusion in their Top 100 is that wines must not only receive a high score and offer good value, but also be “exciting.” I know, this notion is vague to me also, and to some degree it is just another way for the WS Top 100 to take center stage based on other variables rather than just their standard point system.
Even though their write-ups of each winery are quite straight forward and did not inspire a lot of excitement when I read them, tastings and other sources confirm that the Santa Rita Hills winery that made the list is one of the most dynamic in California.
Sea Smoke Cellars is a premium producer of Pinot Noir that has gained a cult following in recent years.
Based on their enormous reputation, it is quite amazing that Bob Davids formally established his vineyard just a few years ago in 1999.
Sea Smoke’s hillside vineyard is situated in the western part of the Santa Rita Hills AVA. It has a desirable southern-facing aspect that lets the vines soak up the afternoon sun. In the evening and overnight, fog from the Pacific Ocean creeps up the Santa Rita River and blankets the vineyard. Regular intervals of sun and fog are the key to complexity and finesse in Pinot Noir from Santa Barbara to the Cote de Nuits.
Listed at a very reasonable $30, the Sea Smoke 2004 Santa Rita Hills Botella Pinot Noir was ranked #53 on the 2006 WS Top 100. It is made with 100% estate grapes, has a deep ruby color, and has exotic, ethereal aromas of cherries and spice.
The attention to detail throughout the grape growing and winemaking processes of this Pinot is quite remarkable. Grapes were hand picked and crushing was forgone to let the fruit speak louder than vinification techniques. The must was punched down by hand to extract flavors and supple tannins.
Once the initial fermentation was complete, the free run was separated from gentle pressings. After racking, the different lots of wine were moved to 40% new French oak barrels and aged for 18 months. Regardless if they conveyed it effectively or not, Wine Spectator certainly picked an “exciting” producer for their #53 spot.
Written by: Ben Bicais on Tuesday, November 28 2006
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I was not surprised to see that a couple of wines from the Santa Lucia Highlands made the WS Top 100 list. This is one of the most exciting regions in California, and is home to some of the best Pinot Noir vineyards in the world.
The Santa Lucia Highlands AVA has several things going for it that makes its Pinot so consistent. The soil contains quite a bit of limestone which is always desirable for Burgundian grapes. Additionally, the climate is blessed with a very long, moderate growing season.
It is no accident that Rosella’s Vineyard and Garys’ Vineyard have consistently made some of the very top Pinot Noir from California. Both have are planted on southeast facing hills and are owned by perfectionist grape growers.
At #59 on the WS 100, the Loring 2004 Rosella’s Vineyard Pinot Noir is from Gary Franscioni’s vines. He is from an old Salinas farming family that has been growing fruits and vegetables for years. In 1996, Franscioni planted Rosella’s Vineyard with Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Syrah on prime, southeast facing slopes.
The Siduri 2004 Garys’ Vineyard Pinot Noir is was ranked just behind Loring at #60. Garys’ Vineyard is a partnership between Gary Franscioni and Gary Pisoni. This property also has a southeast exposure and is planted in the sandy-loam, limestone influenced soils of the Santa Lucia Highlands.
Written by: Ben Bicais on Monday, November 27 2006
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Chardonnay is often considered California’s ubiquitous white varietal, and there are many ordinary wines made with this grape. But the Shafer Vineyards 2004 Carneros Red Shoulder Ranch Chardonnay and Aubert 2004 Sonoma Coast Lauren Chardonnay are two wines that stand apart from the masses.
Famous for his Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon, Doug Shafer shows his winemaking versatility with the 2004 Red Shoulder Ranch Chardonnay. This is an interesting wine that was fermented with only wild yeasts. It was barrel aged but did not undergo malolactic fermentation.
This wine has beautifully pure varietal characteristics and was made with grapes from the cool Red Shoulder Ranch Vineyard in the Carneros AVA. Wind and fog from the San Pablo Bay cools the vines and keeps acidity high, despite relatively warm summertime temperatures.

Mark Aubert is on the short list of California’s best-known wine consultants. With a winemaking resume that includes working at Peter Michael, Sloan, and Colgin, there was considerable excitement when he announced the formation of his own label in 2000. Aubert Wines specializes in Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from the Sonoma Coast AVA.
The Aubert 2004 Sonoma Coast Lauren Chardonnay was ranked #30 on the WS Top 100. A bit more expensive than Shafer’s Red Shoulder Ranch, this really is a stunning wine. Unfortunately, it is very difficult to purchase without being on the mailing list.
Written by: Ben Bicais on Wednesday, November 22 2006
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This is the first part of a series of articles on California’s wines that made Wine Spectators Top 100 list.
Three Pinot Noirs from the Russian River Valley were awarded coveted spots on the Wine Spectator Top 100 List. The variables used to create this hierarchy include, “quality, value, availability, and excitement.” 13,500 wines were reviewed by the magazine this year.
It’s unfortunate that the these sorts of rankings have as much influence as they do, but the reality is that inclusion in Wine Spectator’s Top 100 brings an incredible amount of exposure and legitimacy to the winery and the region. With this at stake, it’s nice to see that three small producers from one of my favorite regions made the cut.
The Kosta Brown, 2004 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir received an impressive #7 ranking on the list. Wine Spectator scored it 96 and was also clearly impressed with the wine’s $38 price tag. Kosta Browne is a small winery that makes several bottlings of big, extracted Pinot Noir. The grapes were allowed to hang until they developed a very high sugar level (25 – 27 degrees BRIX), while the region’s characteristic fog retained sufficient acidity for balance. As shown on the map below, wind and fog from the Pacific Ocean enters Russian River Valley from the Pacific Ocean.

Their 2004 Russian River Valley Pinot was made with grapes from Amber Ridge, Bly, Cohn, and Koplen Vineyards. Wine Spectator is usually thrilled with massive, fruit forward wines, and with an alcohol level of 15.2%, this wine meets that criterion.
The second Russian River Valley Pinot is Merry Edwards 2003 Russian River Valley Klopp Ranch Methode a Lancienne Pinot Noir, adn at $48 it was ranked #21. Before starting her own winery, Merry Edwards was in high demand as a consultant. She was also the founding winemaker at Matanzas Creek in the Bennett Valley AVA.
Mueller Winery is another small Russian River Valley producer that made the list. The 2003 Emily’s Cuvee Pinot Noir scored a 93 and ranked #54. Like the Kosta Browne, it costs $38. The grapes used to make this wine were grown in gravel soils and a cool, foggy climate. This fog is critical to retaining the acidity that Pinot Noir is known for.
Written by: Ben Bicais on Monday, November 20 2006
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Several new sub-AVAs will soon be proposed within the large Paso Robles wine region. But as AVAs get more and more specific, there is a real risk that all of the new names will be unrecognizable to consumers.
The Paso Robles Wine Alliance has spent a lot of money building a geographical brand around their region. Many members of the Wine Alliance argue that it does not make sense to break up this brand into smaller ones that are not familiar to consumers. The Paso Robles AVA Committee is a separate organization that is advocating the formation of smaller regions.

From a grape growing point of view, Paso Robles should be broken up. It is a very large region with a variety of microclimates and soil types. There is a big difference between the vines that are grown near the cool Templeton Gap in the west and vines planted in the much warmer eastern hills. And this is just the tip of the iceberg of the many natural variations within Paso Robles.
In a recent discussion about the issue on Appellation America, Thomas J. Rice Ph.D., argued that creating a detailed topographical map of Paso Robles would be a good first step. There are several distinct watersheds in the region including Paso Robles Creek, the Upper Salinas River, Estrella River, Huerhuero River, Tablas Creek, and San Marco Creek. According to Rice, soil and climate variations should be considered as well before the final borders of the new sub-AVAs are drawn.
In the same discussion, Earl Singer countered that a better way for the diverse wineries of Paso Robles to develop a specific image would be to join smaller organizations based on grape varietals rather than geography. Thus, all Zinfandel producers would market their wines around this specific grape. This is an interesting idea, but it might undermine the whole notion of labeling wines based on specific places in California. The debate will likely continue until later the new sub-AVAs are proposed.
Written by: Ben Bicais on Friday, November 17 2006
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Cabernet Sauvignon has taken root, and made itself at home in the Napa Valley. There are fine examples of Cab from almost every Napa Valley region, but Stags Leap and Rutherford are the most famous.
Although both regions receive similar acclaim for their Cabs, they have strikingly different characteristics.
The Rutherford Bench is a narrow strip of land at the base of the Mayacamas Mountains in Western Napa Valley. Because vines are planted on a gradual, east-facing slope, they are privy to afternoon sun exposure that eludes other regions. Wines made with grapes grown on the Rutherford Bench are known to exhibit “Rutherford Dust,” meaning they are full bodied with spicy and earthy fruit flavors.

Stags Leap is on the opposite side of the valley from the Rutherford Bench. It’s also a little further south, and more exposed to the wind and fog from the San Pablo Bay. In addition to this climatic feature, Stags Leap hillside vines are planted on west-facing slopes, so they don’t receive as much sun exposure as the east-facing slopes of the Rutherford Bench. Because of this, the grapes do not ripen as much as those from Rutherford. Thus, Cabs from Stags Leap have become known as an “iron fist in a velvet glove.” The “iron fist” refers to these wines’ tighter fruit, and the “velvet glove” refers to their smoother tannins, lusher mid palate, and more approachable flavor profile than classic Rutherford Bench wines.
If you like the combination of firm tannins with complex flavors of black fruit, earth and spice, than look no further than the Rutherford Bench. For those of you who enjoy Cabs that have a silkier texture with blackberry, cherry, and chocolate flavors, I suggest exploring what Stags Leap has to offer.
Written by: Ben Bicais on Friday, November 17 2006
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Geographical distinctions have always helped to sell wine, and the American Viticultural Area, or AVA system, is a useful marketing tool for wineries. As AVAs get more and more specific in California, the biggest question is whether or not the average wine consumer will see these smaller regions as meaningful.
The Paso Robles AVA has built a very strong geographical brand in recent years. But because the region is so large, and its climate and terrain so varied, several applications for sub-AVAs are in the works. While I completely agree that these new sub-AVAs are justified based on their unique characteristics, I question whether or not this is a good move from a branding point of view.